10 years in exploration

Exhibition from 31st May to 13th July 2018


Esther Assouline has a long history of collecting objects from the ancient world: fibulae, pearls and ornaments that were acquired in auction rooms. “The call of my Mediterranean origins”, she says.
For a long time, she mused over her acquisitions, studying them from all angles and imagining a place for them in her jewelry.
And then, suddenly, she understood how to integrate the talismans and pearls into her ornaments: they would be mounted intact, as a goldsmith of the Ptolemaic era would have done, but with her vision and her sensitivity.
The rest of the journey followed naturally. She chose pieces that were already drilled and began to integrate them into gold chains, creating patterns of gold and ornaments for which she alone has the secret.


Exposition Esther ASSOULINE


Esther Assouline work in progress




From 21st MARCH to 21st APRIL 2018
extended until 19th MAY


A diamond caught up in a cloud, an imposing, yet light chain, a buoy-shaped pendant that would sink, some jewels seem helium-charged, while others are weighty.
Jewellers are blurring the tracks ...
Be delightfully surprised to discover that light is heavy and heavy is light, and to question the concept of “precious”…
The gallery stages these trompe l'oeil jewels, starting on March 21st, with the complicity of 5 European designers.

 Jewelry by: Gitte Bjorn (Denmark), Kim Buck, (Denmark),  Metylis, (Fr), Fabrice Schaefer, (Switzerland), Céline Sylvestre, (Fr)



2018 exposition Apesanteur bagues Metylis et Fabrice Schaefer


Caption :  "Nébuleuse" ring, yellow gold, rose-cut diamond and Hodomura paper, one-off piece by Métylis, "Pur et Dur", titanium and diamonds ring, by Fabrice Schaefer.

Gitte Bjorn  
Gitte Bjorn, pendentifs

A Danish goldsmith since 1990, Gitte Bjørn’s work is closely linked to the body. She now works primarily with objects and sculpture.
A profound love of manipulating metal is the common denominator for her work, no matter what technique she is using or what theme she is presently researching. 

The works we have chosen for this exhibition are rooted in revelry and indulgment. Wrought from metal and stone, they tell a tale of surrender, one way or the other.

Love sounds pendants, sterling silver, yellow gold  

Kim Buck


It is easy to overlook the ingenuity and humor behind this design when the surface looks like a simple, clear geometric figure. This is a feature that is characteristic of much of Kim Buck’s work.
Born in 1957, Kim Buck is a Danish goldsmith since 1982. He has taught in Sweden and is a guest teacher in Nanjing, China, since 2016.
The series “Inflated” from 2011-2017 is a commentary to his craft that blends both message and technique. The rings are made of fine gold sheets that have been welded together then inflated so true to metaphor, they are filled with hot air. 
When used, the rings get bent and deformed and with time will deflate more and more…


 Kim Buck pendentif Inflated
   "Inflated" pendant, fine gold on cotton


 Bague Nébuleuse par Metylis, or diamant, papier Hodomura


Marie Grimaud mingles gold, platinum and precious stones with paper, fabric, wood, feathers or seeds ... She chose Métylis as a name for her jewelry work as it stands for a poetic, organic world. The origin of Métylis derives from the mingling of "meta"l and "materials" conjuring up chemistry or even alchemy.

She discovered the Hodomura Japanese paper in the course of a project on Origami. This paper, traditionally used in the preservation of prints and the restoration of manuscript, is made up of several layers of fiber from the mulberry tree, which makes it highly resistant, soft and light.

"After numerous trials of twisting and folding it", she says, "I took a needle and thread and began to make knots. Thanks to its tension, the material came to life, as the paper resisted, curved and twisted. Its form became organic: a cloud, an extraordinary plant and a mineral form all at once. I soon saw a new world of folds, hollows and curves, as strange as it was harmonious."

"Nébuleuse" ring, yellow gold and rose-cut diamond on Hodomura paper 


Fabrice Schaefer


Rings are the essential jewels for Schaefer, a jewel that combines the strength of its symbolism, its proximity to the skin and the technical requirement of its realization. Focusing more than anything else on the hardness and power of metal, he works with passion, as an ardent alchemist, combining metals for their contrast to evoke both mineral and vegetal nature. His works are part of the collections of the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris and the Victoria & Albert Museum in London.

 Fabrice Schaefer, bague Pur et dur, titane, diamants
   "Pur et dur", anodized titanium and diamonds ring

Céline Sylvestre

Céline Sylvestre, broches aimantées, "poids", fer, argent massif  

Céline Sylvestre focuses on what our body "vehicles" in terms of individual or collective memory. Without realising it, we all carry the wieght of a story from the day we are born. This weight is essential to our construction, it can make us stronger or it can weaken us.

Her adornments are a gift to the body in its noble function as a sacred place of passage, carrying the memory of our past and the begininngs of the future.

 Brooches "Weight" in iron and sterling silver  





UNTIL MARCH 20, 2018  

collier Niessing, boucles oreilles Jean Grisoni, bague Jo Hayes-Ward


jewelry designers : 

Winter filigree

Works of Caterina Murino and permanent designers of the gallery

24 November - 30 December 2017

Hiver en filigrane - bijoux de Caterina MurinoCaterina MurinoFor this winter exhibition, we have invited Caterina Murino, along our permanent designers. She is renewing the art of filigree with some craftsmen of Sardinia, her native island.

For further information,please refer to our galerie news.



5th October - 23rd November 2017

Exhibition Titanesque, Gallery Elsa Vanier For the 2nd edition of the “Parcours Bijoux” in Paris, I wanted to bring together new designers from all over the world and our permanent designers.

I am delighted to introduce you to a variety of creations of 12 designers using titanium : insolent colour combinations, extravagant jewelry, some light as feathers, others very weighty, organic pieces and others industrial in appearance...

Titanium was forged, melted, oxidized, hammered, stretched, slashed, anodized or paved with diamonds and even welded. In any case, it has submitted to the demands, audacity and perseverance of jewellers whom, I believe, deserve our admiration.

Designers : Marianne Anselin, Florence Croisier, Laurent Diot, Nathalie Dmitrovic, Karen Gay, Roland Kawczynski, José Marin, Meghan O’Rourke, Agathe Saint Girons, Fabrice Schaefer, Vanessa Williams, Claire Wolfstirn

Open from 11 am to 7 pm, from Tuesday to Saturday

Partners of the exhibition Titanesque, Gallery Elsa Vanier

Marianne Anselin

Neckless landscape in titanium, Marianne Anselin

"Having forged silver and iron for a long time, I wanted to take up the challenge of forging a metal which is known to be so hard. I also wanted to work on bars, as thick as the lightness of this metal would allow. Once forged, the titanium surprised me by taking an aspect so similar to wood or stone, I was then able to create color lines by flaming some edges, therefore transforming the jewel into a landscape."

See the works of Marianne Anselin

Necklace «Landscape 1», titanium, yellow gold  

Florence Croisier

“Titanium is attractive for its lightness, its antiallergic properties, its strong resistance and also for this possibility to reveal (through a technical process) colors which are intrinsic to the metal. I was interested in titanium as early as 2002. This metal allows me to explore the ways of adorning the body in a sculptural and contemporary spirit. By interacting with the volumes, colors and movements of the body, my jewelry becomes a true complement emphasizing a trait of character or an inner sensuality."

Necklaces  "Virginia Creeper", Florence CROISIER

See the works of Florence Croisier

Necklaces  "Virginia Creeper", Florence CROISIER
  Necklaces «Virginia Creeper», 2015, titanium and yellow gold

Laurent Diot

Cuff «Fuel my fire»,  Laurent Diot

“Although it took some time to tame, my encounter with titanium was a revelation and it quickly became my favourite material. It plays with light magically. I am enriching its wide range of shimmering and hypnotic colours with a laser. These effects have become my signature.”

Cuff «Fuel my fire», titanium  

Nathalie Dmitrovic

"I am so proud to have succeeded at the end of a course so full of pitfalls! I proved right in persisting in trying to create a really bold and voluptuous ring that no other metal would have allowed. This arduous and little known metal was a beautiful discovery."

See the works of Nathalie Dmitrovic

Ring, «Enlace-moi», Nathalie Dmitrovic
  Ring «Enlace-moi», 2017, titanium

Karen Gay

Ring «Lune», Karen Gay

"This exhibition was an opportunity for me to return to a paradoxical and mysterious metal which I had worked with when a student, this time with an experience and dexterity that allowed a very playful approach. Its high resistance to heat allowed me to "capture" it in a fusion of silver and fine gold, trapping this metal reputedly impossible to weld."

See the works of Karen Gay

Ring «Lune (Moon)», titanium, silver, gold, sapphires, diamond  

Roland Kawczynski

“Forgotten Garden” was my first collection of titanium jewelry, inspired by a walk in a garden at nightfall, this new collection offers the continuation of this evening walk. Summer has come to an end, the flowers in the trees give way to small fruits; the first drops of dew shimmer on the leaves, which conceal some insects that have come to hide. Titanium allows me to transcribe the colors of this garden lit by moon rays."

Necklace «Aulne», Roland Kawczynski
  Necklace «Aulne», titanium, sterling silver, sapphires

José Marin

Cuff «Monstruos en fila», José Marin

"My jewels often have strange shapes and yet vaguely familiar because I like to question the reality of what is observed. I love the work of forged metal and I had to invent new techniques for titanium. My taste for color comes from my Mediterranean character and anodizing titanium is making my dreams come true! The lightness of titanium and its hardness allow to create jewels which are both bold and pleasant to wear.”

Cuff «Monstruos en fila», titanium, yellow gold, steel  

Meghan O’Rourke

“From the moment I discovered how to anodize metal, I was hooked! I’m endlessly fascinated by the colours and optical effects that can be achieved by using this metal, and find that I am continually discovering new properties and interesting surface effects.
As a contemporary jeweller, I am really drawn to working with titanium as a material. Along with its obvious colouring potential; I really enjoy working with the other properties of titanium; its strength and flexibility… Its inability to be soldered forces you to discover creative elements of construction and connection techniques within the works.”

See other works of Meghan O’Rourke

Brooch «Pods lantern», Meghan O’Rourke
  Brooch «Pods lantern», titanium, silver, sapphires

Agathe Saint Girons

Earrings, «Gribouillis», Agathe Saint Girons

"I’ve liked to work with metals forever, feel them in osmosis with my gesture. A newcomer is to be discovered and I go from surprise to surprise: at first glance, the titanium wire is a little too flexible for my taste, contrary to its reputation for rigidity, then it suddenly reacts to my hand by a tension and an amazing reactivity ... Finally, thanks to the anodization, I had the pleasure to play with a rainbow of colors and try and match the fires of opals."

See the works of Agathe Saint Girons

Earrings «Gribouillis», 2017, titanium  

Fabrice Schaefer

“My new work plays on opposites. Material contrasts between sturdy titanium and ductile gold or silver, between color and surface, shape and volume. Solid titanium armatures – strong, dark and mysterious – are dappled with patches of light. The hidden patterns of the skeletal structures are outlined by the membrane, like speckles of shimmering gold or silver, in a coalescing of layered metals. These strong and suggestive pieces are a tribute to the forces of nature.”

See the works of Fabrice Schaefer

Cuff «Fleur de peau» and Rings, Fabrice Schaefer
  Cuff «Fleur de peau», titanium, sterling silver ; Rings, titanium, peridot

Vanessa Williams

Necklaces and Earrings «Washer», Vanessa Williams

“As I was working on works called "Cloud" series, I decided to combine silver with titanium as it can take the blue colour of the Queensland sky. The next step was because of the limitations of the material, so that is when the material started dictating my clean lines. Another limitation I have placed on myself is trying to minimize waste, as titanium is difficult to recycle and impossible to melt down, using strips and prefabricated forms helps in that respect.”

Necklace and Earrings «Washer», titanium and stainless steel  

Claire Wolfstirn

“The very lightness of titanium allows larger pieces of Jewellery and, for this reason, I had been contemplating this metal for a long time. It proved a challenge to create fine cuts in titanium but I was able to design these new creations in continuity of my work of cutting and coloring with the flame, for "random and controlled" effects. These new jewels come from a reflection on connecting and stacking, which was inspired by the visit of a cairn, a very graphic assemblage of stone slabs.”

See the works of Claire Wolfstirn

Earrings «Cairn 2», Claire Wolfstirn
  Earrings «Cairn 2», 2017, titanium and yellow gold

Download the press release